How do I replace the standing rigging on a sailboat?

I need to replace the standing rigging on my 38ft cruising yacht, but I have no reliable record of its age. Can I order new wires from the old ones, and which parts of the job should I leave to a rigger?

Boat type: sailing yacht. Topics: Standing rigging, Mast maintenance, Boatyard work.

Answer

The most practical way to replace standing rigging is to unstep the mast, have a rigger make a correctly specified set of stays and shrouds, then step and tune the mast. Record the existing arrangement before dismantling, but check its dimensions and fittings against the mast specification rather than simply copying it.

Check specification and condition

Establish the rigging's age, wire construction, diameter and terminal types before ordering. Many cruising yachts use stainless steel 1 × 19 wire; rod, compacted strand and fibre rigging have their own specifications and replacement procedures.

Inspect each wire where it enters its terminal, beneath terminal covers and around bends or articulation points. Broken strands, cracked terminals, rust weeping from a swage or distorted fittings warrant replacement regardless of age. A clean exterior tells you nothing about remaining fatigue life.

Ten to twelve years is a common planning interval for cruising wire rigging, but usage, environment, manufacturer guidance and insurance requirements vary. Thirty-year-old rigging warrants replacement; a visual inspection offers little reassurance.

Find the mast identification number. On some Seldén installations it is engraved near the heel, often on the port side. Seldén may be able to identify the original specification from it. Check for subsequent alterations before ordering.

Record rig and plan lift

Photograph every attachment, including spreader ends, mast tangs, toggles, chainplates and the forestay inside the furler. Label each wire by position and side. Record rigging-screw settings before slackening them.

  1. Remove sails and boom, prepare mast wiring connections and record their routing.
  2. Arrange a suitable crane, lifting strop and padded mast trestles with the yard.
  3. Have the crane take the mast's weight and secure it before disconnecting stays and shrouds.
  4. Control the mast heel throughout lifting, especially with a deck-stepped mast.
  5. Lay the mast securely on trestles and keep pins with their labelled fittings.

Keep everyone clear of the suspended mast and use a yard crew experienced in mast handling.

Disconnect rigging screws where their design permits, keeping heavy fittings from dragging during the lift. Protect masthead cables and guide them carefully through the deck. Pulling against a hidden connector can turn a rigging job into a rewiring job.

Specify wires and inspect attachments

Give the rigger the complete old assemblies and a fitting schedule. Specify bearing-point-to-bearing-point lengths at an agreed rigging-screw setting; bare wire length is not enough. The finished assembly must allow adjustment in both directions.

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This answer is general guidance from BoatBuddy based on the question above. For safety-critical work (gas, fuel, electrical, hull, rigging, navigation) always have a qualified professional check your boat.

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