How do I replace the stanchions on a 1985 Gulfstar 45?

I need to replace the guardrail stanchions on my 1985 Gulfstar 45. How do I remove the old ones, get at the fixings underneath and make sure the replacements are properly supported and watertight?

Boat type: sailing yacht. Topics: Deck hardware, Guardwires and stanchions, Deck repairs, Sealing and bedding.

Answer

Check whether you need to replace the upright stanchions alone or their deck bases too: a removable post can often be changed without disturbing a sound, watertight base. Before ordering parts for a 1985 Gulfstar 45, check how each base is mounted and how to reach its underside, as previous repairs or alterations may have changed the original fittings.

Check posts, bases and access

Clean one representative base and look for a grub screw, cross-bolt or retaining pin securing the upright in its socket. If the post is welded directly to the mounting plate, the complete assembly must come off.

Inspect the welds, socket and plate for cracks, rust staining and distortion. Ask someone to move the post gently while you watch the base. Movement between post and socket suggests a retention problem; movement of the whole plate suggests loose fixings or damage to the deck beneath.

Find the underside with a torch and inspection mirror. Depending on the position and interior fit-out, access may be through lockers, removable headlining, cabin trim or the anchor locker. Do not assume every base has the same fasteners or backing arrangement.

Once the guardwires are disconnected, keep people away from the unprotected deck edge. Work alongside in settled conditions.

Measure before ordering

Remove and measure one sound example, or make a dimensioned sketch before dismantling a damaged one. Record:

  • Post outside diameter, height above deck and any inward or outward rake.
  • Height, size and orientation of both guardwire holes or guides.
  • Socket depth and retaining-screw or cross-bolt position.
  • Base footprint, deck angle, bolt diameter and hole centres.
  • Backing-plate dimensions and available clearance underneath.

Measure imperial fittings carefully. One inch is 25.4 mm, so a nominal 25 mm replacement may fit poorly in an existing socket. Nor should you assume a fixing measuring roughly 6 mm is M6: it could be 1/4 inch with a different thread.

A marine stainless fabricator can reproduce an unusual post or base in 316 stainless steel. For proprietary replacements, obtain a dimensioned drawing before ordering. The footprint may match while the post angle or guardwire heights differ.

Remove posts and bases

  1. Photograph the guardwire routing, mark each post's position and release guardwire tension. Withdraw the wires as necessary, securing their ends so they cannot disappear overboard.
  2. For a socket-mounted post, remove the retainer and gently work the upright free. Avoid using the post as a long lever against the deck.
  3. To remove a complete base, expose the underside and have a helper hold the bolt heads while you undo the nuts. Protect nearby upholstery and collect washers and backing pieces.
  4. Cut the bedding around the plate with a thin scraper, protecting the gelcoat. Lift the plate progressively rather than driving a screwdriver underneath.

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This answer is general guidance from BoatBuddy based on the question above. For safety-critical work (gas, fuel, electrical, hull, rigging, navigation) always have a qualified professional check your boat.

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