Can I Replace the Standing Rigging on My Boat Myself?
My 32-foot sailing yacht is due for new standing rigging, as the current 1x19 wire is over twelve years old. I have a decent set of tools and want to save some money on yard bills. Can I safely replace the shrouds and stays myself, or is this a job strictly for a professional rigger?
Answer
Yes, you can replace your own standing rigging, provided you are methodical and have a safe way to unstep the mast. For a typical cruising yacht under 35 feet using standard 1x19 stainless wire, doing the work yourself saves between £1,000 and £2,000 in labour.
Unstepping the mast
Replacing the entire rig requires taking the mast down. A boatyard crane or derrick usually costs £150 to £300. This provides a stable horizontal platform on trestles to inspect the sheaves, tangs and wiring. Never stand directly beneath a suspended mast. Some owners try replacing one shroud at a time with the mast stepped by going up in a bosun's chair. This approach is exhausting and risky. It also makes inspecting the masthead fittings or replacing a roller furling forestay impossible.
Terminating the wire
Your main decision involves terminating the wire. Roll-swaged terminals are the industry standard. They require a heavy hydraulic rotary press. To use swaged ends, you must remove your old rigging, lay it out straight and send it to a rigging shop for duplication.
Alternatively, use mechanical terminals like Sta-Lok, Petersen or the older Norseman style. Manufacturers design these for DIY installation using just a hacksaw, two spanners and marine sealant. Mechanical terminals cost £40 to £80 each. This makes the initial parts bill higher, but the fittings are reusable. When you re-rig in ten years, you only buy bare 1x19 stainless wire and new internal cones.
Measuring and cutting wire
When making up the rigging yourself with mechanical terminals, buy a bulk reel of 316 marine stainless wire. Brands like KOS or Petersen offer reliable products. A 6mm wire typically costs £4 to £6 per metre.
Follow these steps to get the lengths right:
- Lay the old shroud on a flat surface and pull it taut.
- Measure from the centre of the top eye to the centre of the bottom pin. Use a steel surveyor's tape because fibreglass tapes stretch.
- Check your bottle screws were set at one-third closed before taking the rig down. This leaves plenty of adjustment room.
- Cut the new wire using a fine-toothed hacksaw or cable shears. Wrap the cut mark tightly in electrical tape first to stop the outer strands unravelling.