What common problems should I check when buying a used Malö 36?
I'm looking at a used Malö 36 with teak decks and an older diesel, and the interior looks very well kept. Which expensive problems should I check before making an offer, and what should I ask the surveyor to concentrate on?
Answer
On a used Malö 36, check the teak deck and signs of water ingress first, followed by the standing rigging, steering and engine installation, as faults here are most likely to mean an expensive refit. These are inspection priorities for an ageing cruising yacht, rather than evidence of a model defect, so make the purchase subject to an independent lift-out survey and sea trial.
Teak decks and leaks
A smart interior can conceal a worn deck. Replacing extensive teak can cost tens of thousands of pounds. Establish whether the deck is original, recaulked or replaced, and ask for photographs and invoices showing the work done.
- Teak: look for missing plugs, exposed screw heads on screw-fastened decks, split planks and deep grooves between the grain. Thin edges around fittings and drains suggest repeated sanding.
- Caulking: check for seams lifting away from the timber, crumbling material and patches that stay wet after the surrounding wood dries.
- Deck structure: feel for movement around stanchion bases, mooring cleats, chainplates and the windlass. Have the surveyor investigate suspect areas; a moisture reading through teak alone is not enough.
Below decks, inspect behind accessible headlinings and inside lockers beneath deck fittings, windows and the mast area. Staining, swollen plywood edges and fresh sealant need an explanation. Check the cockpit windscreen, sprayhood attachments and cockpit drains too. Carry out a controlled hose test with the owner's agreement.
Rigging and attachment points
Ask for the standing-rigging replacement invoice, specifying which wires, terminals and fittings were renewed. An invoice for new sails or running rigging tells you nothing about the age of the shrouds and stays.
Examine swaged terminals for cracks, rust streaks and broken strands, especially near deck level. Inspect chainplates and their accessible attachments below decks for leakage, corrosion and movement. Check the mast step and supporting structure for distortion, cracked joinery or signs of persistent damp.
At around ten years, discuss wire-rigging replacement with the surveyor and insurer. This is not a universal expiry date. Allow several thousand pounds for a full replacement, and obtain a quote covering mast removal, terminals and any furling-system work.
During the sea trial, operate every reef, the headsail furler, winches and any fitted in-mast furling through their working range. Do not climb the mast until the rig and climbing arrangements have been assessed.
Hull, rudder and steering
Ask specifically about groundings and repairs. Inspect the keel-to-hull area, surrounding laminate and internal structural members for cracking, displacement or repairs without supporting records. The surveyor should assess accessible ballast fastenings where applicable. Tightening bolts to an assumed torque is not a diagnostic test.