How to choose and install a wireless anchor windlass remote?
My sailboat has an electric windlass that I operate with a slightly temperamental foot switch. It pulls the anchor up electrically, but drops it by gravity when I loosen the clutch. I want to install a wireless remote to make this easier from the helm or bow. What type of remote should I choose and how do I wire it in?
Answer
A standard 12V or 24V wireless windlass remote kit with a receiver and a waterproof fob will easily bypass your temperamental switch. Since your windlass only powers up and drops by gravity, you simply wire the receiver's up signal to your existing control box and cap off the unused down wire.
Selecting a Marine Remote
You face two choices when buying a wireless remote. Brands like Lewmar, Quick and Lofrans sell dedicated marine kits for £120 to £200. These feature sealed fobs and tinned copper wiring. Generic 12V winch remotes cost about £15 to £30 online. They use the exact same radio frequencies. However, their plastic fobs leak and their receiver relays corrode rapidly in a damp anchor locker.
Spend the money on a marine unit like the Lewmar Wireless Remote Kit or the Quick HRC. Ensure the fob comes with a lanyard and floats. If it sinks, attach a small cork float. Dropping the remote overboard while leaning over the bow is the most common way owners lose these systems.
Locating the Control Circuit
Isolate the windlass battery at the main circuit breaker before touching any wiring. This prevents accidental operation and severe short circuits. Your windlass system has two electrical circuits. Heavy cables carry 80A to 150A to the motor. A light control circuit carries 2A to 5A. The wireless receiver only interacts with this low-current control circuit.
Look between your battery and the windlass motor. You will find a solenoid (often an Albright contactor) in the forward cabin or anchor locker. This heavy relay takes the small signal from your foot switch and connects the massive battery current to the motor. You will wire the new wireless receiver directly to the low-current spade or ring terminals on this solenoid.
Wiring the Receiver
Your wireless receiver has four wires. These are Positive (Red), Negative (Black), UP signal (White or Yellow) and DOWN signal (Blue or Green). Your windlass drops the anchor by gravity. You will completely ignore the DOWN wire.
- Mount the receiver: Find a dry spot near the solenoid. The receiver box measures about 10cm by 10cm. Keep it away from large metal masses like the windlass motor. Metal blocks the radio signal from reaching the internal antenna.
- Connect the power: Attach the Red wire to a 12V positive source. You can take this from the main positive lug on the solenoid. You must install an inline 5A blade fuse on this Red wire. Connect the Black wire to the common ground terminal on the solenoid.
- Connect the UP signal: Identify the terminal on the solenoid where your existing foot switch connects. Crimp a tinned copper ring terminal onto the receiver's UP wire. Bolt it onto this same solenoid terminal. This piggyback method keeps both the foot switch and the remote functional.
- Isolate the DOWN signal: Fold the unused DOWN wire back on itself. Cover the end with heat-shrink tubing. Cable-tie it out of the way so it cannot short against any metal components.